Why Always the Rose Plant Cutting always turn Black After Growing
3 Magic Methods to Grow Rose Cuttings: 13 Golden Rules for 100% Success
Rose flowers are loved by everyone, but many gardeners struggle with cuttings that dry out or catch fungus. Today, I’m sharing the exact step-by-step process I use at 'The One Page' to ensure every rose cutting you plant thrives. We will compare three different rooting methods and explore the 13 Golden Rules for success.
The 13 Golden Rules for Rose Propagation
1. Selection: The Pencil Rule
Always choose a cutting that is roughly the thickness of a pencil. Look for "maturity" in the stem—a slight brownish shade indicates it has enough energy to grow roots.
2. Remove All Foliage
Strip away all existing leaves. If you leave them on, the cutting will waste energy trying to keep the leaves alive instead of focusing on developing new roots.
3. Sharp Tools and Proper Sizing
Use a very sharp pruner to avoid crushing the stem. The ideal height for a rose cutting is 6 to 7 inches.
4. The 45-Degree Angle
Always cut the base at a 45-degree angle. Immediately after cutting, place the stems in water to prevent air bubbles from entering the stem and to jumpstart growth hormones.
5. The Perfect Soil Mix
A well-draining, nourishing medium is key. Use this ratio:
70% Normal Garden Soil
20% Cocopeat (to retain moisture)
10% Vermicompost (to provide mild heat and nutrients for roots)
6. Pot Preparation and Drainage
Use a 6 to 7-inch pot with plenty of drainage holes. Cover the bottom with a piece of newspaper to prevent the soil from washing out while allowing water to flow.
7. Rooting Hormones (The Experiment)
In this guide, we compare three methods:
Chemical Hormone: Using a standard rooting powder (like Fast Roots).
Honey (Natural): Honey is a powerful anti-fungal and natural rooting agent. Dip the base in just a few drops.
The Control: Planting a cutting directly without any hormones to see the natural potential.
8. Creating a Mini-Greenhouse
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag (polybag). Tie it tightly with a rubber band to trap humidity. This moisture is vital for the cutting's survival in the early days.
9. Water Propagation for Thin Stems
If you have very thin branches, don't put them in soil. Place them in RO or Mineral water. Within 20 days, you will notice white root nodes developing at the base.
10. Managing Excess Moisture
Check your polybag regularly. If you see too much water pooling (which causes fungus), shake the bag out or wipe it down before re-covering the pot.
11. Post-Sprout Fertilization
Around day 15, once you see new growth, perform light tilling (1 cm deep) and add a small amount of Vermicompost. Avoid liquid fertilizers at this stage as they can attract pathogens.
12. Acclimatization (Pin Holes)
Don't remove the bag suddenly. Poke 3-4 small pinholes in the plastic to let the plant slowly get used to the outside air.
13. The Gradual Transition
After 20-25 days, cut a larger hole (1.5 cm) in the bag. This prevents "transplant shock" and ensures your healthy new leaves don't wilt when the bag is finally removed.
Comparison Results: Which Method Won?
After 20 days of observation, here is how the different methods performed:
